moonwise: (johnny jump ups)
[personal profile] moonwise
As stated previously, yesterday I got back from a trip to St. Andrews, Scotland. It's rather ironic that I'd go, because it's Mecca for golfers, and I've never picked up a club in my life. The countryside was lovely, with rolling hills and hayfields everywhere, and badly kept small roads that aren't kidding around when the signs tell you to slow down. We did see one horrible accident where someone didn't.

The Good

  • Small, pretty, rambly seaside towns
  • High availability of alcohol (like, everywhere. You could get it on the train.)
  • Rugby
  • Pubs
  • Dependable, clean trains

    Much nicer than NJ Transit, though I think everything is. Because I am a complete dork, I had to get something off the trolley, and I gushed to husband later that "it was just like Harry Potter!"

  • Tartans, and accompanying men in kilts playing bagpipes
  • The royal castle in Edinburgh
  • Ginger Beer from Schweppes! Also Scrumpy Jack, which our hosts thought was very funny, and I was afraid that drinking it was on a level with drinking PBR or Milwaulkee's Best.

    The Bad

  • Breakfast at The Scores Hotel

    I have NO idea how they made toast, sausage, and eggs so execrable, but it was nasty.

  • THE EXCHANGE RATE, HOLY SHIT.

    Because everything that costs a dollar here costs a pound there, and it's easy to look at a price and say "huh, that's not bad," until you consider that you have to double every price you see. This is why I brought back very little.

  • Driving on the left

    I didn't do any driving, but this freaked me out all the same.

    The WTF

  • Separate hot and cold taps

    This boggled me. Having hot and cold water come out of the same tap is hardly a new concept, and yet almost every single sink in Scotland had separate taps, even new sinks. So, either you burn your hands/face or freeze, and I've never been a big fan of filling the basin and washing my face in water that gets progressively soapier.





    This is the tiny fishing village of Crail. As you can see, the weather was "dreek," which is Scottish for "cold and wet."



    One thing I quite liked were the brightly painted doors. It seemed traditional to paint your door something very eye-catching, like turquoise, blue, red, or orange. Makes sense when most houses are made of stone.



    Another little fishing village, Anstruther.



    Moonrise over a hayfield near our friends' house. I loved these hayfields and the big wheels of straw - they were picturesque, and everywhere.



    Taken at Scotland's Secret Bunker, which was intended to be the seat of Scottish government in case of nuclear war. It's funny - you go to these places, and the concept of nuclear war seems almost laughable because it didn't happen, but at the time, it was a big deal. The locals seemed to feel that this site was



    On to St. Andrews. This is a ruined castle in the town that was once used by the archbishops when Catholicism was the norm. It's home to the infamous bottle dungeon, which is more or less a pit in the ground that you would have no hope of escaping.



    A counter-mine to a siege mine built to get under the castle and collapse one of its walls. The diggers of the counter-mine were in a big hurry to find the mine, so there's just enough room to squeak down. Eventually you break through into the mine, which is much more spacious. Not a trip for the claustrophobic.



    The ruins of what was once a gigantic cathedral in St. Andrews, which was the religious center of the country for a period of time. Not much is still standing except the bell tower and what would have been the back of the church, shown here. The day we went, there was a piper playing outside, and it added quite a lot to the atmosphere. No doubt, all the pipers know this.



    The Scores Hotel, where we stayed. Usually visible in photos of the Old Course.



    The Royal and Ancient Golf Club.



    Some golfers out on the Old Course.



    On Monday, I took the train into Edinburgh to see the royal castle where such storied historical figures like Mary Queen of Scots lived before her sister chopped her head off. The castle was impressive, and it was the first intact castle I'd ever seen, but the royal apartments themselves were smaller than I'd thought. Inside the pale, you could also visit the Scottish War Memorial, St. Margaret's Chapel, and the Scottish War Museum. They also displayed the Scottish Honours or crown jewels - a large ceremonial sword, a sceptre, and the crown. I particularly liked the Stone of Destiny, which is a large sandstone block on which the kings and queens of Scotland were crowned. It seems that the Celts were enamored of this idea of a big rock for royalty, because the Lia Fail of Ireland was said to roar when a rightful ruler stepped on it (until Cuchulainn broke it.)



    The Great Hall, still used for state functions. Swords, polearms, and pistols line the walls.



    Another piper, this one on the Royal Mile. Good shopping there, but see note about exchange rate. I did buy a kilt, though!



    The USGA and the R&A lift a glass in St. Andrews. We were all well on our way to being schnockered at this point.



    Street sign in St. Andrews. YES I AM FIVE YEARS OLD, KTHX.

    Very good time. I would definitely go back, if for no other reason to see more of Edinburgh and also of Glasgow. We thought we'd get to look around Glasgow, but thanks to traffic, not knowing where to return the rental car, and the hotel being hell and gone from the city center, we didn't get there. Flight home was uneventful, picked up the car, got home after noon. Back to work!
  • Date: 2006-09-08 05:18 am (UTC)
    From: [identity profile] tiggymalvern.livejournal.com
    High availability of alcohol

    It's kind of annoying being a Brit who comes to the US - what do you mean, I have to go to the liquour store for over 20%? And the liquour store doesn't open on Sundays? WTF?!

    Driving on the left

    Brits tend not to have issues with switching, with France being right next door. Most people who drive have done both. I guess Americans are far less likely to get the practice!

    In Britain, mixer taps are the norm for kitchen sinks, but not for handbasins. I've never really thought about it, it just is....

    Did you go to the pottery in Crail? There seem to be a lot more pots on the inside than could fit in the building seen from the outside, and there's some pretty unique stuff in there.
    (deleted comment)

    Date: 2006-09-08 02:43 pm (UTC)
    From: [identity profile] tiggymalvern.livejournal.com
    It could be worse, I could be in one of the states where you can't even buy wine in the supermakets. And thanks for the offer, but I might pass on Louisiana - you and I seem to have the same issues with both hair and bigotry in our home towns!

    Date: 2006-09-08 12:43 pm (UTC)
    From: [identity profile] arafel.livejournal.com
    The liquor laws vary by state, too, which is irritating. Sometimes you can buy your booze in the supermarket, and other times, you have to go to a state store. Makes for a lot of border-jumping and police who capitalize on the illegality of it.

    Honestly, I can't think of any country on the North American continent that drives on the left besides some of the small Caribbean islands (St. Maarten is one of them, IIRC.) So, no practice, you're right about that.

    In Crail, we walked around a bit, but it was rainy and nasty and we were disinclined to explore too much. We had lunch and moved on to Anstruther. There didn't appear to be much open when we were there - everything closed early on Saturday. :(

    Date: 2006-09-08 02:46 pm (UTC)
    From: [identity profile] tiggymalvern.livejournal.com
    I think most of those small Caribbean islands are the ex-British ones, aren't they? XD

    Welcome to small town Britain, yeah. Having lived in London, it's always a shock to go back to places where everything closes Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, and nothing even opens briefly on Sundays....

    Date: 2006-09-08 03:07 pm (UTC)
    From: [identity profile] arafel.livejournal.com
    Is St. Maarten a former British colony? The guidebook said it was divided between the French and the Dutch.

    Date: 2006-09-08 03:15 pm (UTC)
    From: [identity profile] tiggymalvern.livejournal.com
    No clue, but by the name I'd doubt it was British. That's why I carefully said 'most' :-)

    Date: 2006-09-08 06:56 pm (UTC)
    From: [identity profile] arafel.livejournal.com
    Those little islands changed flags so much that it's quite possible the island once was British! :) There seemed to have been a lot of squabbling over who got which tropical paradise (and the accompanying slaves and cane fields, no doubt.)

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